 
 
Start: Métro Place
Pigalle
End: Métro Place Blanche
Paris
Metro Map Link
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This itinerary (just below the boulevards Clichy
and Rochechouart) includes streets most tourists
miss and, thus, at the same time, miss experiencing
the studios of Degas and Renoir; the shop
where Vincent and Bernard bought their
art supplies (usually on credit) and where Vincent
first met Cézanne who uttered to
Vincent's face his classic statement that Vincent's
works looked like they'd been painted by a madman;
the birthplace of (Vincent's artistic
idol); the studio of Delacroix (one of
Vincent's favorite painters and theorists); the
homes of the lovers George Sand and Chopin
(only a courtyard away from each other); the two
apartments in the same complex in the cité
Pigalle where Theo lived happily
with his new wife, Johanna, and their new
baby named after Vincent. The reader learns
this happiness was brief, lasting barely a year-and-a-half
because Theo suffered a complete mental
breakdown, dying just six months after Vincent.
The walk then passes the ornate building in rue
Chaptal where Vincent first worked
as a young art dealer for Goupil & Cie
(a family-related art firm) and then moves on
a few doors away to the Musée de la
Vie romantique, (a feast for the eyes) where
salons were held frequented by George Sand,
Chopin, Liszt, Delacroix and Dickens. The house originally belonged
to the Dutch painter Ary Scheffer-an
artist Vincent highly admired and whose
works Goupil conveniently handled. It now
houses personal belongings not only of Scheffer,
but also Sand (Vincent mentions a romance
of hers in his letters).
The walk ends at an experimental theatre
where Vincent was asked to exhibit his
paintings during his last few months in Paris
and with a poignant statement by Aurier
(the man we first met in .)
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